Eat & drink
Best Places to Eat in Lille – Dining Guide
Enjoy Lille's food scene
Food for all tastes
The traditional eating establishments are called Estaminets. There are quite a few. And a must for any visitor to Lille. I’ve created a separate page for the Estaminets. Plenty of other restaurants, lots of more ethnic ones in the Wazemmes district. A friend owns a very fine Indian establishment – L’été indien.
Traditional Dishes and Local Specialties
Local dishes include moules-frites (mussels and chips), Le Welsch, a heart-attack of cheese, beer, ham and bread, Carbonade Flamande, a rich beef beer stew with chips. The local cheese is Maroilles; very pungent. Many of the bars do meat/cheese platters (Planches) which are often huge (with bread of course) and very good for about 15€. Good for two people. Chips (frites) are everywhere. The boulangerie in Gare Lille-Flandres, Erik Kayser, is good if pricey.
Best Patisserie and Bakeries in Lille
Best patisserie/cake place is the world-famous Méert in the old town. All the usual fast-food suspects are present. Very, very good ‘proper’ burgers at L’Adresse, 34 Bis Rue des Boucher. The highly rated Paris-founded French Bastards (!) bakery/coffee shop chain now has two outposts in Lille: 33 Rue Neuve and Rue Basse.
Carbonard Flamande – a rich beef/beer stew
Estaminet Au Vieux De La Vielle
Great croques and fantastic frites everywhere!
L'été Indien for great Indian food
Many of the bars are also brasseries...
La Bellezza – ever popular Italian
Unmissable Méert for pastries, chocolate, cakes...
Elizabeths Tea Rooms
La Fossetta Italian
Recommended restaurants
La Bellezza, Rue Esquermoise, is an excellent Italian restaurant. Always big queues.
There are quite a few sushi places, deeply average in my experience. Some weird 'fusion' joints – Coté Sushi – a Peruvian/Japanese experiment: no me neither. Lots of couscous (France's adopted cuisine; like curry for us) restaurants, particularly in the Wazemmes area.
There's an English tearoom in the old town, Elizabeth's on rue Basse. Good in my experience; quite small. But, as mentioned previously, for the full-on tearoom/cake experience Méert is stunning!
Brasserie Andre is an atmospheric and popular longstanding Brasserie on Rue de Béthune, close to Place de la République.
There are about five Italian restaurants on Rue des Molfonds.
People queue endlessly for meringue-based local specialities from Les Merveilleux de Fred, Rue de la Monnaie. The Merveilleux consists of meringue, chocolate, whipped cream, coated with shavings of dark chocolate. [There's one at Lille-Flandres too and they have recently opened an outpost at St Pancras in London]. See my Lille Top Ten page.
Waffles are quite a big thing here too. Covered in whipped cream!
For cheap food, most patisseries/boulangeries do very good, large sandwiches (€4-5ish), or they will make them for you. The chain Paul, which is in the UK, was founded in Lille. Perfectly acceptable, but not the best.
In the better food supermarkets you can find perfectly acceptable ready meals/salads, etc.
Michelin-Rated Restaurants in Lille
If you're in the mood for fine dining, there are a few Michelin-rated restaurants in the centre.
Riverboat restaurants near the start/finish area
Brasserie Andre
Rue du Gand – a road of restaurants!
Lots and lots of restaurants on Rue du Gand in the old town.
Most bars are really brasseries, so do food. Simplistically you won't be disappointed. The French are obsessed by food, so apart from the fast-food joints and ubiquitous kebab shops, places don't survive if the food isn't good or is overpriced.
Street Food, Frites and Casual Dining
Chips are a big deal here! You'll find the various Friterie Meuniers (one in Grand'Place another close to Lille-Flandres, one by Au Paon D'Or) are utterly reliable for huge portion of frites and stuff!
Food Halls and Markets in Lille
If you all want to eat different things (!) then there are two food halls: Kitchen Market Lille (rue des Tanneurs) and Grand Scéne (rue de Béthune).
Legendary Dining Spots
The Alcide 'Bouillon' restaurant has been serving workers classic French food for almost 150 years. Great value and atmosphere; rather like Chartier in Paris.
Breakfast and Brunch Options
Breakfast, apart from the ever-present croissant, is not such a thing. The only place I've found for a decent brunch-type offering is the Australian Paddo Café, by the cathedral on rue du Cirque. Busy and no reservations. Excellent food and service. Soho Urban Food (rue Léon Trulin) is highly rated for a big buffet-type meal; I've not been. I find the Indian restaurants in France pretty bland by English standards, with the exception of my mates Harsh's and chef Nabi's aforementioned L'été indien!
Open for over 100 years, Alcide 'Bouillon' dining spot is a must visit
Kitchen Market Scene food hall
Rue de Gand
On Rue de Gand you will find about a dozen estaminets! The road is entirely restaurants, running to the Porte de Gand (Ghent Gate), where you can see the old city walls. Inside the historic Porte (pictured) there is even a restaurant, a Greek establishment called Yaya. I've mentioned some of the estaminets on a separate page. They all offer quality, hearty local dishes in a vibrant atmosphere.
Snacks and Fast Food Options
All the usual suspects are present and correct in force... sadly!
Practice at Home
If you want to prepare your tastebuds in advance, I'd suggest you have a go at a nice Carbonard Flamande. Serve it with a pile of chips, washed down with a pint of strong Flemish beer, for authenticity!
This BBC Good Food recipe is actually pretty good...
